28. Albergo Passo Falzarego

28 Albergo FalzaregoDolomites081

(Note: This page has been extensively re-written several times, as research continues, in an effort to create a theory from the facts, and not make the facts fit a theory!)

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This photo presented me with several conundrums during my first exploratory visit to the area for material for this web site. I thought I knew the area well, but it showed up big holes in my knowledge.

The buildings in Zardini’s photograph appear to be quite new when photographed, and the debris beside the road initially also suggests it too may have been recent when the photograph was taken. However, I could not find anything like that viewpoint at the summit of the Passo Falzarego, nor were there present day buildings there that were in any way similar style, or alignment to the mountain ridge above.

After an hour or so of frustrating search, I gave up and drove down towards Cortina to ponder this. However, a few days later, I returned from Cortina towards the Falzarego Pass. Glancing up at the mountains at the so-called “
Col Gallina”, which is about a kilometre before the top of the Falzarego Pass itself, I saw the distinctive cockscomb ridge and narrow valley leading to it. “Gallina” means “hen” in Italian. Here was the spot! It was somewhere I’d driven through many times on the way to other goals.

Zardini’s building is on the north side of The Road. My strong inclination was to say that Zardini’s photo dates from not very long after the First World War. This is based on there being a motor coach in the photo, and an assumption that the debris all around is a remnant from the War. Early photos elsewhere on this site show that there were no buildings at the head of the Falzarego Pass itself until about the late 1920s. Given that the Road over the top of the Pass was said also to be the final part to be completed, my assumption is that “Col Gallina” marked the highest point accessible by vehicle until the Road was completed.

At some point, this building became known as “Menardis”. I think these four postcard views are pre WW1 and show the original buildings at this point. The prominent Austro-Hungarian colours flying in the third of them suggests life before the First World War. There is no doubt that these buildings stand on the site Zardini photographed, but they are different buildings. My assumption is that they were destroyed in the First World War fighting that took place all around them:

Menardis 1Menardis 2
Menardis 3Very Early Menardis

The building and viewpoint used in Zardini’s photograph appear on many local postcards from the early 1920s. This is a genuine Zardini postcard view of them. It was never posted, and carries neither hand-written date nor postmark, but the buildings are in every way identical with the first shot on this web page:

Albergo FalzaregoZardini001

I also found this hand-coloured view of the same set of buildings, also, infuriatingly, also with no date on it, and one, from another angle, of the buildings looking very new, with an elegant motor vehicle outside:

img_2634
316_001

In the Cortina to Bolzano version of the guide to the Road, Zardini revisited the area and took this photograph:

cortina---book-2-9001

The viewpoint is almost identical. Notice the two large white rocks to the left of the road, at the bottom centre of the picture, for example, which feature in both photos. The alignment of the mountains in relation to the buildings is the same. However, the building to the right has been enlarged outwards and upwards to become something altogether more luxurious.

Dating of the images was helped by finding these postcard of the same enlarged buildings, the first of which which had been posted in 1926, the second in 1932:

Alb Falz 1926Hotel Falzarego Ghedina


This winter view is not dated or postmarked, but shows the building on the right from the shots above:

Hotel Falzarego in snow


Another Zardini postcard, possibly from a little later:

Albergo Falzarego 20s001

And this postcard was very clearly hand-dated in August 1928:

85554188


The left-hand building has the name “Menardi” over the door and it is apparent the extension building served as a restaurant. The overall site is variously called the Hotel Falzarego or the Albergo Passo Falzarego. This was to give me difficulties in pulling this web page together.

Most photographically elegant, in my view, is this Ghedina postcard of the early 1930s:

Hotel Falzarego 1930s


Here are two similar views of these buildings from the opposite direction. Both are early postcards, simply advertised as being “pre-1930”, but again neither was never sent or dated. On the opposite side of the valley, the Cinque Torri rocks are prominent, and the peak in the background is the giant Sorapis:

Falz looking SEfalzarego-pass-zardini001


Ghedina of Cortina photographed the Hotel too. One of these two attractive postcards in my collection carries the date of 12 August 1948 in the sender’s handwriting.

Albergo Falzarego 30s001Albergo Falzarego 20s002

I was tempted to think this 1957 postcard shot was also the same view of the Hotel:

Alb Falzarego 1957001

However, closer inspection shows that most of the buildings have gone and what remains may only be a shell!

Sadly, the “Guida Illustrata Delle Grande Strada Delle Dolomiti” by F. Terschak (see Links page) reports that the Albergo Falzarego was “destroyed by an avalanche in the winter of 1950/51”. I have subsequently collected these four postcards, the first dated 1956 to 1959, which show all that seems to have survived. Notice that, in the first of the hand-coloured cards below, the window surrounds of the building nearest the camera, on the right, exactly match those in the two Zardini photos of the Albergo as it was built in the 1920s:

falzarego-colour-card002

Albergo Falzarego 50s001lagazuoi-1966
Falz ruins


Menardi’s nevertheless seems to have soldiered on as a petrol station and snack bar. Nowadays it is a popular road-side restaurant, with virtually no trace on the site of the buildings there previously. The backdrop has not altered much but it will never be possible to recreate Zardini’s original photo of this site. Here it is in 2013. Notice the large boulder (right) in the car-park, which is very visible in some of the postcards above:

p1380347


Piecing together the story of this view was confused by the frequent discovery of references to, and photographs of buildings called the “Falzarego Hospiz” and the “Hotel Falzarego”. For some time, I thought these were other names for the buildings on the Menardi site - possibly buildings pre-dating WW1. For example, I found a series of very old photos of The “Falzarego Hospiz”, with a mountain backdrop placing it in what, at the time, I thought was pretty much in the same spot as the Menardi buildings in Zardini’s photograph. The hand-coloured view is dated 1907:

267_001Falzarego 1907-1
Falz Hospiz1Falzarego Hospiz early


However, I was wrong about the location. On my visit in September 2013, I realised that the site of these was about a kilometer further down the Falzarego Pass, towards Cortina, than I had originally thought. These buildings were completely unconnected with Menardi’s. There is nothing except trees and boulders now where they once stood. This was my estimation of the spot, in 2013:

p1380355

I also found these six postcards of a building called the Hotel Falzarego. Judging by its position in relation to the mountains, this seemed near or close to the old buildings above. Look at the large boulders beside the road in my picture above, and at the boulders between the hut (right) and the hotel in the second of the hand-coloured postcards below. The same? I think so.

This was clearly a major building. These photographs are all, in my view, pre WW1. Some carry very evident flags in the red and white Austo-Hungarian colours, for example:

205_001786_001827_001Albergo Falzarego card108_001
Falzarego 1001-1

The alignment of the road ought to have told me that these were not on the Menardi site. This area has altered a lot nowadays. There is evidence to suggest the road has been realigned hereabouts. There is nothing standing on the site of the original “Falzarego Hospiz but close by is a square-set building, smaller than the “Hotel Falzarego” above , but aligned on exactly the same axis. Compare this 2013 view with the last of the hand-coloured photos of the “Hotel Falzarego” above:

p1380358

The clinching evidence, for me, was a local footpath sign on the edge of the adjacent woods behind the building. It seems this area is still known today as “Ospizio Vecio”, roughly translated as “Old Hotel”.

p1380359

Some extremely productive postcard hunting on a 2014 trip to Bologna also gave me this card. It is almost the identical view to my own above, which was taken twelve months before I bought the card:

Falzarego Hospiz 1960s Zardini


I know nothing of the dates for the large Hotel Falzarego shown on these cards, and can only assume it too fell victim to WW1.

Mystery solved, in part, at least, pending further research.

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